Tuesday 13 November 2007

Caracas city guide for Realbuzz.com

I was asked to write a Caracas city guide for realbuzz.com, an online magazine that focuses on travel, sports, fitness and outdoors. I was a bit apprehensive at the thought of writing a tourist guide for Caracas, considering the state of political unrest and prevailing insecurity in the city at the moment. Thinking it over, though, there are plenty of nice things to do around Caracas. I guess being a native, I forget to look at it from a foreigner's point of view. In the end, this is what I came up with:

Caracas city guide by Isabel Garcia-Nevett
The capital of Venezuela is a huge, sprawling, metropolitan city. Although it is not exactly tourist-friendly, there are plenty of things to do for the inspired traveller. People are friendly, restaurants abound and the night-life is very active. The mountains surrounding the city are particularly good for unwinding and getting in touch with nature.
A word of caution: safety is a big issue in Caracas and it pays to be extra careful with your belongings and to avoid certain areas, such as city centre and Petare, especially at night.

Top five things to do in Caracas
Cerro Avila
The city sits within a valley surrounded by the Avila Mountain. Green and huge, this is what Caraquenos miss when they leave the city. There are two options for visiting this lovely place. For an active and healthy outing, there are beautiful walks to Sabas Nieves and El Picacho. A more leisurely way to go up the mountain to enjoy the views is on the cable-car or Teleferico. There are many restaurants at the top, from fondue places to Spanish tapas bars.

Areperas
The traditional areperas are perfect for a bite after a big night out or a hearty breakfast before going off on an expedition in the morning. Their main offerings are arepas: round, flattened portions of dough made with corn-flour with a wide variety of fillings, from the conventional ham and cheese to the more unusual octopus or quail eggs. There are other Venezuelan specialties to be found, such as cachapas (sweet corn pancakes) or chupe de gallina (milky chicken soup with potatoes, cheese and corn). The best areperas are scattered around Las Mercedes and Altamira, with special mention going out to Gran Horizonte (La Castellana) and La Casa del Llano (Las Mercedes).

El Hatillo
There are not too many places to walk around in Caracas, but El Hatillo is definitely one of them. This is a suburb to the south of Caracas, a little higher up the mountain. Parts of it still maintain a very cosy, colonial feel, with a lovely square and church. There are tons of small shops and art galleries around for a nice afternoon visit. Enjoy churros con chocolate in one of the tiny cafes.

Centro San Ignacio
Venezuelans love shopping centres and Centro San Ignacio is one of the most exclusive. It is worth a visit just for the lovely open-space architecture and hip surroundings. This is also one of the biggest night-life centres in Caracas, with some four big discos and around a dozen bars and restaurants open every night. The best mojitos in town can be found here at Roneria Santa Teresa.

Catch a baseball game
Venezuelans are big baseball fans and a trip to a game in the stadium at Universidad Central de Venezuela during the season (between October and January) is a fun experience, especially if you can catch a game between the local team, Los Leones de Caracas, and archrivals Navegantes del Magallanes. This is the Venezuelan equivalent to a Manchester v Liverpool match. There’s beer, food stands and hundreds of friendly locals going crazy over the fate of the lions (Los Leones).

Where to stay in Caracas
The best and swankiest hotels are in La Castellana, with JW Marriott and Embassy Suites standing out as the best. The traditional Hotel Tamanaco, in Las Mercedes, has had a recent face-lift and has the best views of the city in very atmospheric settings.

Where to eat and drink in Caracas
Venezuelans are famous for loving good food. The streets of Las Mercedes offer many excellent restaurants, such as Astrid y Gaston (from famed Peruvian restaurateur Gaston Acuna) and Bar Si, an elegant Thai and sushi joint. Meat is a big part of the local diet, with traditional grill restaurants serving huge cuts of beef with lots of delicious side dishes. Among the favourites are El Alazan in Altamira and Belle Vue in El Hatillo. In the biggest shopping centre, the Sambil, there are many good alternatives that offer great views of the city.

How to get around
The underground is probably the safest way to get around town, although it doesn’t cover the entire city. If using a taxi service, make sure it is from a registered company and discuss the price before setting off. Avoid buses, but if in need try using the Metrobus (part of the underground service).

When to go
Venezuela is right below the Equator and that means the weather is great all year round. The rainy season, between May and September, can be damp. Christmas is a big event in Venezuela, with lots of traditional foods and events, so it is a great time to visit the decked-out Caracas.

Tuesday 6 November 2007

Celebrities are crazy people

Last week Naomi Campbell went to Venezuela to hang out with main man, Hugo Chavez. I was as perplexed as the next person, and more than a little outraged. I wondered if she even knew where Caracas was on a map (I wonder if she knows even now...). I don't even think it's her business to know. Then again, celebrities and artists are forever trying to get in touch with their "revolutionary" side, cue Kevin Spacey, Sean Penn and Danny Glover (who have also shaken their thing for the Venezuelan dictator). I could not help but agree with Anne Applebaum's excellent article, which I link here:

http://www.slate.com/id/2177484?Gt1=10636

I hope you enjoy it.